Denim, Diana, and Death in the Afternoon

After class, this afternoon's excursion was by bus — a ride to Nimes, about one hour away, and, if you've read my account of Tuesday's guided walk, I am happy to say that today's experience was much more rewarding. Our guide, Jeremie is tres, tres, gentil et pleasant. He had the most charming and friendly manner about him and his eyes lit up when he spoke and smiled. Most importantly, he understood that he was speaking to French learners and his French was much easier to follow than the speech of yesterday's guide. On the bus ride to Nimes, he spoke of the history of the place — the Gauls, the Romans, and those who followed. When Jeremie asked the group what was the language of Languedoc, prior to French, I knew: Occitan! (Languedoc = langue+de'Oc.) .

According to the French, blue jeans are misnamed. According to Jeremie, when Levi Strauss imported blue jeans into San Francisco and they were adopted by American cowboys, Americans mistakenly called them "jeans," because they had been imported from Genoa. (The Americans thought jeans had originated in Genoa; however, the material had been imported from Nime, and they had only been made in Genoa — a distinction that seemed to be very important today.) The origin of words is something that I find really interesting, and here is the origin of the word "denim": "de Nimes." This may be the most important thing that I learned today.

Nimes has several remaining structures built by the Romans, and among them is the coliseum. We climbed all the way to the very top of the coliseum and were given details of all of the spectacles that took place there. This region of France is heavily influenced by Spanish culture. Spaniards originally came to Languedoc-Rossillion for the grape harvests, and they brought with them various aspects of their culture, including bullfights. Nimes is the bullfight capital of Southern France, and they are held, appropriately in the coliseum.

This evening a young friend, Martine, a researcher with a college came to stay with Jacqueline and we spent a long dinner hour conversing in French. One of the topics was how each region of France has its own pronunciation, and Jacqueline said there are parts of France where her speech is not easily understood. I was told that the people in the south of France are much less likely to speak English than the French in the north of the country (because of the proximity of England). It is surprising to me that even young and very well-educated French people (such as Martine) do not speak English; however, I've seen several statistics that attest to the fact that France has the lowest percentage of English speakers than most other European countries. This is not a criticism. Americans have no room to talk. (Pardon the unintentional pun.)

I tire very easily. I think it's more than just jet lag. This is an experience wherein I must concentrate and focus on every word that is being said to me all day long, and I need to pay attention to every little detail: how doors open, where the tram stops — all of the details of life that one takes for granted. The mental energy required takes a lot out of me, and I also find that I also have a huge appetite. (I believe there is information attesting to the fact that mental work requires at least as much energy as physical work, if not more.) Of course I also revel in the adventure, and all of these things are part of why I came. I'm not complaining, and I know I will adjust eventually. Well, with that being said, here's some photographs of Nimes, and then to bed.

The Cathedral of St. Castor

Le Crocodile — the symbol of Nimes.

When the Romans were victorious in Egypt, Caesar rewarded the soldiers with a house in Nimes. The brought back a crocodile from Egypt to symbolise their victory. In the same square is a palm tree which stands high above and is the symbol of Rome. Tradition is that one must touch the nose of the crocodile, and I reached over and touched it as instructed.

A temple which was not destroyed,
but (temporarily) used as the Hotel de Ville 

The coliseum

From the top row of the coliseum (where slaves and women were relegated to sit).
The goriness continues, as bullfights are held here.

Jeremie, who sang a chanson de Nimes. He entertained us on the bus ride home.
I hope I get to take another excursion with him!
(As you can tell, I was smitten.)